Dear Reader,
When you’re researching about Sagada, Mountain Province, I’m sure you have come across blogs reiterating on how to be a responsible tourist. Please heed their advice. Your future self will thank you.
Yours truly,
Ann
Traveled February 2018.
Recapturing that sense of wonder
Coming back to Sagada three years after our first visit almost felt like a shock.
This once sleepy town in the far regions of Luzon is an idyllic escape from crowded Manila. Fresh mountain air, delicious food, and temperate weather are just some of this town’s delight.
I remember my feeling the first time we arrived in Sagada after being 12 hours on the road coming from Manila. Back then, there were no direct trips available. We had to take another bus going to Sagada from Dangwa Terminal in Baguio.
I guess I wanted to recapture that sensation. One of my favorite activity then was taking a stroll in town. Now, not so much. Tourist vehicles line up taking precious pedestrian lanes on the street. The lack of parking space is now prominent. Smoke coming from the deluge of tourist vans and private cars makes walking such a hassle.
Not everything is lost, though. My favorite food stops are still in operation. In fact, some of them are doing renovations and expansions. Business is definitely booming.
How to get to Sagada?
Now Coda Bus Lines offers direct trips to Sagada from Cubao.
You can book round trip ticket online, like we did. This way you can choose your seat and pay via their payment system online.
I would not advise going to their bus terminal as a chance passenger. Passengers taking direct trips, especially long trips, buy tickets ahead. Vacant seats are slim to none.
We tried both their bus with restroom and the one without. There isn’t much distinction between the two. Both buses have comfortable leg rooms. Fare for the bus with restroom is significantly higher with fewer seating capacity. I’d say you can choose either one according to your preferred travel time.
If your schedule allows, it might be better to avoid Sagada on Fridays and Saturdays. Tourist vans coming from Manila usually leave every Thursday evening and arrive in Sagada the following day.
And oh if it isn’t too much trouble, please take the bus instead of bringing your own transport. Unless you’re staying on the outskirts of town where there is enough parking space, roads in Sagada are narrow and most establishments don’t have designated parking area.
Super Blue Blood Moon
What makes this trip extra special is the appearance of the super blue blood moon on the eve of February 1st. I don’t have a proper camera to capture the phenomenon. Anything else just wouldn’t give it justice.
Being on the road, traversing the mountainous region in this part of Luzon and witnessing this rare celestial event is something that haunts your memory for a while.
The blood moon glows in the night sky as if beckoning one to worship its beauty. And yet ironically, you can see the pitch black road, knowing at the back of your mind that one wrong turn from the driver could send the bus plummeting off the edge and this enchanting beauty couldn’t care any less. It is a tormenting thought.
I was never more glad when we arrived in Sagada the next day with the sun eclipsing my dreadful imaginations.
Read more stories about my first time in Sagada, Destination: Sagada, Mountain Province, Philippines.
Below is a scrapbook essay of our 4 days stay in Sagada
Food Crawl Ideas in Sagada: Revisiting my fave food stops
Salt and Pepper Diner
My favorite rosemary roast chicken wasn’t available on their menu that day. Too bad.
They offered instead this mixed vegetables with etag, a.k.a. Igorot smoked ham. It is a specialty in the region.
The etag added a new dimension to the flavor. This mixed veggie was actually quite delicious.
Sagada Lemon Pie House
You wouldn’t want to miss this famous pie while in Sagada. Whenever I hear Sagada lemon pie, soft and fluffy come to mind. Washed down with their mountain tea, perfect combination.
Yoghurt House
Patrons to this cafe may rave about their yoghurt, but my taste buds tell me otherwise. Or perhaps I was just unlucky with my choices so far. With great options to pair with their yoghurt, I couldn’t seem to find one that suits my taste. My limited number of skills don’t extend to the kitchen though. So, it might be a good idea not to take my word for it.
But their homemade cookies are another story. I bought several packs for take home. Gosh they are to die for!
Misty Lodge and Cafe
Hmm where do I start?
We chose to spend three nights here and I might be a little biased on the food. I just love everything about this place.
Red wine and pizza at 9 in the morning? Why not?
A steak dinner by the fire to cure a grumbling stomach after the long hikes? Yes please.
Of all the yoghurt I tried in Sagada, the one at Misty Lodge and Cafe is my all-time favorite. It’s the ultimate mix of sweet and tangy. Poured with their homemade strawberry or blueberry sauce, unforgettable!
I guess they remembered me ordering it many times during our stay because when they came to Manila, they sent us a message asking if we would like a delivery.
I would come back to Sagada for this yoghurt. So, when it comes knocking on my doorstep — hallelujah!
It was already February but snowman by the fireplace hasn’t melted yet.
They have these bookshelves in the attic lined with assorted books. There’s got to be one there for you.
I found a collection of Harry Potter. Yay! I had to set aside the book I was reading then because hey, Harry Potter.
This reading nook in the attic is a darling. Definitely my spot.
Masferre Country Inn and Restaurant
We tried their fried chicken. It was delicious but nothing spectacular.
But their chili paste, oh their chili paste! I bought a bottle and had to use it sparingly so it would last forever. Ha ha
Walking to Lake Danum
It you’re not partial to long hikes, better hire transport. Lake Danum is a 2-hour leisurely walk from town.
The road is paved with concrete though, so if the weather is cool, walking can be quite enjoyable. Otherwise, bring an umbrella or hat or anything to shield you from the sun.
This pretty wooden fence wasn’t here three years ago.
If you’d like to know, this is also the road going to Sagada Cellar Door and Sagada Pottery.
You will pass by the junction to Sagada Cellar Door on the way to Lake Danum. As their cellar opens at 5 in the afternoon, we gave it a pass this time.
For a moment there, we thought we were lost. We backtracked a couple times just to check if we missed any sign that would point us to the lake.
It was a long and lonely road with only pine trees to keep us company. There wasn’t anybody we could stop to ask.
Then we found that small slab of stone, easy to miss from the road really, when I remembered some blogger mentioning it to indicate the path that would lead us to Lake Danum. If I remember correctly, it contained names of some officials in the area.
From here, it was only a very short walk to the lake.
Lake Danum is famous for sunset viewing. But I wanted to capture the lake in broad daylight. I am glad I did. The reflections on the water are perfect.
The weather up here is cool. Might need that jacket after all.
Road to Lumiang Burial Cave
You may have heard of Gaia Cafe — the famous vegan cafe overlooking Kapay-aw rice terraces. They are located along the road to Lumiang Burial Cave.
This is one of those picturesque roads in Sagada.
I love Gaia Cafe’s al fresco dining style with a view of those green rice paddies and mountains in the distance. If you have seen the movie That Thing Called Tadhana, you know what I’m talking about.
Unfortunately, Gaia Cafe was closed for renovation.
Wondering if we had tried the cave connection?
Read it here: The Sagada Cave Connection: Traversing Lumiang Cave to Sumaguing Cave
Thank you again Sagada. Till next time.
