Calling all thrill-seekers. This mentally demanding activity is for you.
The last time I explored a cave was with my childhood friends. Though it was among my unforgettable exploits, the trek from Lumiang Cave to Sumaguing Cave is on an entirely different level. It’s a whole new world down there.
As you go down to these dark underground chambers, your mind will be your greatest enemy. The fear of the unknown is indeed a great mental obstacle to overcome.
I still don’t know what pushed me to do it. Curiosity, perhaps?
On the day hubby and I decided to register for the Cave Connection, I was still having second thoughts about this whole crazy adventure. Darn, curiosity wins!
Preparation
Our guide, Kuya Jolly, preparing to light up our main source of light for the next 3 to 4 hours.
When we reached the mouth of Lumiang Cave, I felt a little strange. We were about to venture into the unknown and unexpected things were known to happen. There was still a part of me that wanted to back out. But, I dissed that thought. I busied myself looking at the stacked coffins as if it was the most fascinating thing in the world.
The place is in fact a sacred ground where the Igorots bury their dead. I am still a little confused as to who gets buried to where. It seems not all were qualified to be buried at this cave, or hanged at that cliff. And although some still practice this custom, many have already adapted to modern burial methods.
Our kerosene lamp has been lit. Safety instructions delivered. This is it. No turning back now.
Walking on lamplight
From the mouth of Lumiang Cave, we started out slow with our guide holding the lamp and leading the way. Indie, is that you? He must have done this countless times. How else could he easily maneuver on an uneven ground with one hand preoccupied with the lamp. I was not exactly sure how hubby was doing behind me. Both my eyes and hands were busy feeling my way through dusty old rocks.
After awhile, we reached the entrance. You read it right. The entrance to Lumiang Cave is a very narrow crevice where you had to rappel down a particularly sharp vertical drop to reach the bottom. This is where your guide would be really helpful. They would tell you which part of your body must go first, where to anchor your feet, and when to slide down. Difficulty level? I would go for 3.
The moves
As you go farther and farther down into the many chambers of Lumiang Cave, there are times when there is no rope to hold on to. But apart from the guide’s very specific instructions, they would also show you how to execute the combination of moves needed. It is much like learning a dance step; put your right foot here, twist your body to your right, grab this protruding rock with your right hand, and extend your left arm to that crack over there. Listen well. Ask if you’re not sure because one misstep and you could land in big trouble. The guide will never hurry you up.
Cardinal rule? Trust your kickass guide.
As we picked up speed, the rocks became more slippery. On these, I took off my flip flops for better traction.
Climb minus a harness
Some parts require you to climb up. There is one particularly tricky spot where a female tourist, not so long ago, fell to the rocky bottom. She missed her footing, panicked, and then relinquished her grip on the rope, all in an instant. Her tour guide wasn’t able to do anything. She suffered a broken leg and had to be transported through a water channel underneath the cave. Poor girl. I hope she is okay now.
We took a breather here.
Our guide volunteered to wait for a group not far behind us to help his friend hoist up his 3 female guests. That was a bit unfair. Our guide assisted the other girls while he let me scramble all the way up on my own? I’m a girl too Kuya. ha ha. Really, I was just glad we all did fine.
Crossing a yucky icy pool
After about an hour of wiping my hands off dusty rocks, we crossed an ice-cold pool of water with a sludgy ground. Yuck! That was my least favorite part. Thankfully, it didn’t take us long to cross, and anyway, another minute would have frozen my leg. You see, I don’t even like beaches with muddy bottoms, even more so on a pitch-dark cave several thousand feet beneath the earth’s surface. One moment longer and my imagination would start running wild.
Inside the cave, danger is real.
I wouldn’t wander far from the guide if I were you. There was a very deep pool, a dark, perhaps bottomless chasm, and more dark unexplored chambers. Somehow, they beckoned to be mapped. But I would leave that to the professionals, thank you.
Meeting prince Charming
There were also interesting parts, like the Dance Hall.
It’s a relatively wide area with an even surface where tourists take their jump shots and shadow shots. Its dome is as large as a cathedral with lots of bats clinging to its ceiling. We also saw fossilized shells on some walls of the cave, evidence that this part of land was submerged in seawater millions of years ago. Truly interesting because this is the Mountain Province after all.
Now come to the most dreaded part.
Where your worst nightmare might come true
After all the vertical and horizontal challenges we just passed through, this has to be the final test. At a glance, it looked easy. But I did a double take. We had to navigate down a steep incline trusting only our bare hands and feet (and butt). I thought if I slipped, the dark gaping hole below would gladly swallow me whole into nowhere. I’m no Gandalf and there would be no Lady Galadriel out there who is going to save me.
There was our guide just within my reach. If I’m going down, then I’m going to grab him down with me. Oops! Guides from other groups positioned themselves towards the bottom. Perhaps to block the oh so enticing view? But it helped.
Butt, feet, then hands, repeat. Move it lady! I call this the butt challenge.
I have heard that there was a tourist here who flatly refused to go down. It took over an hour and a lot of coaxing to persuade her to do it. I don’t really blame her. That was among the scariest thing I have ever done and I did a few batshit crazy ones. My trick was just to do it and not think about it. And don’t look beyond your feet or your mind would wander where it shouldn’t. Before you know it, you’ve reached the bottom. Congratulation, your guide is now a hundred years old. ha ha.
And hello Sumaguing
Then we have reached Sumaguing Cave.
If Lumiang Cave is all about physical and mental challenges, Sumaguing Cave is all about icy pools and stunning rock formations.
Sumaguing Cave is truly a work of art. I’ve never seen anything like it. Here, the guides would ask you to remove any footwear to preserve the rocks. Anyway, the rocks are very slippery, so better explore it barefoot.
After a grueling 2 hours of walking, crawling, scrambling, and whatnot, Sumaguing Cave is a real treat.
I would leave that to your imagination.
Then, of course the pride of Sumaguing Cave, the King’s Curtain. It is truly spectacular. My photos don’t do justice. Apart from the challenging light condition, I just really want to explore it with my eyes.
The waters are clear, perhaps, because of the surrounding rocks. Go ahead, take a dip if you fancy a cold swim. Just a hot shower for me now, please.
I think if you like cold springs, the icy pools here would be heaven.
The obligatory shot at Sumaguing. Our guide insisted on it.
Sunshine at last
Yehey! We survived the Sagada Cave Connection.
We exited at the entrance of Sumaguing Cave. On our way down, we passed by Kapay-aw Rice Terraces.
Would I recommend the Sagada Cave Connection? Oh yes! Just make sure you are up for the physical and mental challenges the activity requires. Although the guides will do everything they can to make your tour easy, there is a limit to what they can do. They won’t be holding your hand while you scramble over rocks, so there’s always the danger of slipping and breaking your ankle.
If at all possible, avoid carrying a bulky backpack.
In some instances, you really do need your butt and back to slide down and the backpack could hamper your movement. Although the guides would offer to carry your stuff for you, please be mindful that it is already beyond their duty as tour guide. During the activity, they would offer their shoulder, legs, and arms for you to step on to make your ascent or descent easier. I think it is more than enough. Don’t you think?
Caves are inhospitable places with unforgiving terrain.
There has been a recorded accident where part of this cave connection collapses killing the guide and the tourist. Their bodies have not been found yet. This cave also floods easily considering there are deep pools of water underneath it. I think exploring it during rainy season is asking for trouble.
On a brighter note, the rock formations are truly magnificent. I wouldn’t miss it for the world.
The bottom line is we are just guests, here to explore and admire its rugged and stunning beauty. Respect comes a long way.
Get a guide
If you’re contemplating going in without a guide, stop right there. A local guide is 100% necessary. Don’t get me started with the convoluted route we took. I even lost count of my “Wait, What?” moments. We got our local guide from SAGGAS (Sagada Genuine Guides Association). The minimum guide fee is P800 for 1-2 guests and P400 for every additional person.
Enjoy your tour! Be safe.
Next in line, Crystal Cave!